INTERVIEW BY JIANCA LAZARUS
PHOTOS BY RICK LEEKS
It would be great if everyone could taste the life of a true surfer. Jairus Cannon is the defininition of a true surfer. Ever since I’ve known Jairus, his life has revolved around the waves. On any given day, at any spot, if the waves are good, Jairus will be there. Life should be so simple. Even though he is one of the most talented surfers I know, I consider his best quality to be his personality. He is always fun and positive. I think everyone should have a friend like Jairus.
Who are you?
Jairus Cannon. Want me to spell it?
Could you repeat that? You’re where?
Yeah, I’m on a pay phone in Hawaii. There are these Hawaiians on the pavilion barbequing, just chilling.
So you’re getting wasted basically?
Nah, not me; everybody else, though.
How old are you?
Do you have a girlfriend?
No, you know how it is; I mean I had one but I’m in the water too much and it’s just like a drug.
Do you try to shoot up surfing everyday?
I have to surf every day. It’s what I know and feel; it’s just so real for me. Otherwise, I just hit the beach. If I don’t, I go ballistic, I start getting aggro.
What’s your favorite spot to surf?
Mahla and this spot in Tahiti.
What’s the biggest wave you’ve ever surfed?
About a 10ft I think, 20ft face, but I can’t claim that because when you’re speaking about yourself. . .
Do you plan to become a big wave rider?
Well, I’m pretty much doing that right now. I just surfed Jaws. Jaws is like one of the gnarliest waves I have ever surfed; it’s pretty scary.